Guest Blogger: The Steps of Positano

Editors’ Note: This guest blogger thing is starting to become a habit, one that Laura and I are quite happy to encourage! Less work for us. :) As most of you know by now, we spent a week along the Amalfi Coast of Italy with my parents, Laura’s parents, her sister, and her uncle back in September. That’s eight people from three families… sounds like the setup for a cheesy 80’s sitcom. We had an amazing time exploring the coast, and my Mom was kind enough to write a bit about our week together. Thanks, Mom! We also have more photos from Italy to share, so be sure to check out our Positano, Pompeii, Amalfi Coast, and Capri photo albums. Ciao!

The Steps of Positano

While Lustin and the Maestrellis were exploring Tuscany, Richard and I were finishing our explorations of the ruins of Turkey and Greece. Positano, a colorful costal town built against the hills, with its narrow, winding roads, was the designated place for the two families to come together and explore the Amalfi coast of Italy.

Just a few of the MANY steps down to Casa CosenzaRichard and I arrived from the Naples airport (via a private driver, no interest in driving the coastal roads!) a day earlier than everyone else. The road from Naples to Positano was everything we’d been told – narrow, curvy, but with spectacular scenery. We were deposited in Positano next to a sign that read “Casa Cosenza” showing stairs going down. Casa Cosenza has been owned by the Cosenza family for over 200 years. It is bright yellow, quite visible from the beach, and although it technically has a street address (“Via Trara Genlino 18”), it soon became apparent that Casa Cosenza was wedged into the steep hillside, far from the nearest drivable street, above or below. Yes, their porter carried our luggage down 188 steps to Casa Cosenza from the main street, and it was yet another 188 steps down to the beach from there. We were certainly going to get our exercise!

The Maestrelli entourage arrived the next day (Saturday) from Naples. The men in their group poo-poo’d the porters and carried their luggage down the 188 steps, and a wonderful week was underway. We soon fell into a familiar (if exhausting) routine of going up and down those steps. Dustin, Laura, and Teresa of course could maneuver them much faster than the old folks, but we all found our comfort level, and up and down we went.

Breakfast with a view like this comes at a cost!On our first morning together, John, Mary, Buzz, Richard and I went in search of an American breakfast with eggs, something not too common in Italy. We found eggs – 188 steps down on the beach, and if I remember correctly we ended up with about 10 pieces of toast. After that, our morning prima colazione consisted mainly of cappuccini and coronetti at one of the local cafes, which of course was either 188 steps up or 188 steps down, and the down route included even more steps back up, then a walk along an upward sloping walkway to the tobacchi in Piazza dei Mulini, where around 7:30AM the coronetti arrived hot and fresh from the oven.

Each day was a new adventure. On our first day together we took the local bus from Positano up to Montepertuso (a small village above Positano), and then five of us walked along the narrow road and (eventually) a footpath to the next town of Nocelle. We saw many vegetable gardens, lemon trees, olive trees, and grape vines laden with grapes. The walk was a bit longer than expected, and we learned not to trust the distance markers! That evening we all enjoyed dinner at Da Vincenzo on the main road in Positano – yes, once again we climbed 188 steps up for dinner and then 188 steps back down to Casa Cosenza for the night.

Note how everyone is taking in the sunset except Dustin, who is too busy eatingEvery afternoon after our daily adventures, we gathered on the Frazier deck for wine, bread and cheese. The view from all of our rooms was spectacular, though: colorful homes and hotels, one on top of the other, built into the hillside, the Spiaggia Grande (main beach below), Square Flavio Gioia and the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption with its green and yellow mosaic tile dome, and of course the beautiful sea. What a wonderful setting in which to have our two families become better acquainted! [We put our best photos from Positano, as well as a few from the Fraziers and Maestrellis, in our Positano album.]

The next day was designated “beach day”. So after our colazione we gathered our beach gear and once again walked down the 188 steps to the beach, then back up a few more steps, then down a few more to the little beach of Fornillo, just around the corner from Spiaggia Grande. It was a sunny day enjoyed by all.

Tuesday was an early morning as we were off to Pompeii. We had an especially early colazione at the tobacchi on the main square in Positano, where we also bought our bus tickets to Sorrento. From Sorrento we caught the train, and by 10:30AM we are in line to buy our tickets for Pompeii. Thank heavens Laura can read the bus and train schedules! Pompeii is an amazing site. The eruption of Mr. Vesuvius in AD 79 buried the city in ash and stone, and it wasn’t rediscovered until the 17th century. Excavation began in 1748 and revealed a city frozen in time. [Check out some photos in our Pompeii album.]

One of many gorgeous old buildings in the hilltop town of RavelloOn Wednesday morning we took the boat along the coast to Amalfi, another picturesque coastal village. Once in Amalfi, we rode a bus to the top of the hill to the amazing terraced town of Ravello. Some of us explored the Villa Rufolo, while others went to Villa Cimbrone, but the views from both were spectacular. We regrouped and all enjoyed a beautiful lunch at a garden restaurant on top of the hill overlooking the water. The restaurant grows most of their own food in their private garden next door. [Photos from the Amalfi Coast are in the Amalfi Coast photo album. Are you starting to see how this works? :)]

On our last full day together we hired a private boat to take us to the island of Capri. Peter the captain was quite colorful and provided us with a full day of fun. We explored Capri in the morning and then he circled the island. We made several stops to swim with the jellyfish – or rather, to try and avoid the jellyfish while we were swimming. It was wonderful to just relax and enjoy the beautiful blue waters surrounding Capri. [You guessed it, photos in the Capri album.]

As our time together was drawing to a close, we gathered for one last try at a group photo (we’d managed precious few of all of us during the week). Richard and I feel very fortunate to have had this time together with the Maestrelli family. We had such a wonderful time! Thank you, Dustin, for your IT support and, Laura, for your knowledge of the Italian language – and most of all, for your kindness and patience with your parents. You are the best!

 

Comments

[Mary M.]

Donna - what a wonderful summary of our time together on the Amalfi Coast. It was a trip we will never forget.

And now I know where Dustin gets his skill as a writer!.

Mary M.

[Gail Long]

Donna..
You always write so beautifully. It has been fun to follow the "kids." I am so happy that your and Dick got to join them...what fun.
Gail L